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So your landlady threw you out because you didn't make rent. You haven't eaten much in the past 72 hours, and the peanut bowl at La Vida hardly qualifies as a meal. Your favorite bar is no longer accepting credit from you and you've begun to feel a tad unwelcome in some parts. You're broke, starving, stinky, stone cold sober and stuck in Mexico—a horrible and potentially deadly combination in these parts. All grounds for deportation, starvation, or even worse—that dreaded long distance phone call to the unsympathetic family member or leery acquaintance. But you've reached and breached those credit limits sometime ago and for some reason the telephone operator keeps saying "that number has been changed and is no longer in service." What now? Ask a fellow good samaritan for a loan? Reality check: you're in Mexico buddy, there are old ladies and children begging and starving in the streets—TAKE A NUMBER! Contact your country's local Embassy?—HA! Good one! I'm sure bailing your bumming, backpacking, dread-locked, jewelry-making, unemployed ass out of Mexico is at the top of their diplomatic priorities. Get a job?—SHEA-YEAH, RIGHT! You're like, in Mexico, dude. Unless you enjoy spending twelve-back-breaking-hours-a-day, hunched-over, paving the streets with many small round stones for three-hundred-pesos-a-week—you're pretty much fucked.

Naw. What you need to do is learn is the Art Gallery Shuffle, my friend. And you need to learn it quick. The first thing you must do is find the latest edition of the most respected newspaper in town. You can easily do this in El Jardin. Just sit down on any bench next to an unsuspecting elderly gringo couple and kindly ask them if you can momentarily borrow their copy. The quality publication will almost certainly have a convenient pullout calendar listing of all the events for the coming week smack dab in the middle of every issue. Quickly thumb to this section, discreetly remove it without the seniors noticing, and politely return the borrowed newspaper. With red pen in hand, thoroughly circle all the listed art gallery openings and exhibitions. You now have a convenient and pocket-sized ‘program' for the week ahead.

You have your mission, but you can't very well show up to one of these high-society events all scraggly and stinking of last night's pulque-binge, so you best clean up first at a friend's apartment, public washroom or garden fountain before you hit your first exhibit. But if you reek, your clothes are unkempt and your hair is out of place—don't sweat it. It's quite chic to stink, dress sloppily and have bed-head these days. Someone may even mistake you for someone of taste, or the artist himself. And you'll be surprised how much more of a reaction you'll receive from the opposite sex when you pretend as if you don't have time to care about things like personal hygiene and fashion.

Arrival time is trey important. You don't want to arrive too early, or the gallery people will remember you, and after a while, wonder when you're going to leave. You want to arrive at the peak influx of people, so as best to get lost in the crowd. But you don't want to arrive too fashionably late, however, or you may find slim pickings at the hors d'oeuvre table. Ideal arrival time is about half an hour after the event is scheduled to begin.



You can arrive under many pretenses (casual spectator, friend and supporter of the gallery, art critic, art dealer, and even artist) but your best advice is to pick one of these identities and stick with it for the duration, so they don't catch onto your game. Remember, the art scene is a small, gossipy, and elitist world—and any word of your transgressions or miscues will spread like so much wild fire until you are eventually blackballed from all proceedings. A personal favorite of mine is the role of "The Photographer". The Photographer is always welcome because he is (in theory) there to generate "free publicity" for the gallery and its featured artists. And God knows everyone loves free publicity. To pull off the role of The Photographer, one must simply borrow a camera from a dear friend or dead relative. You don't even need to load the camera with film. Just show up at the exhibit and begin snapping away. If you have different lenses and a filters you can pretend to test and use—all the better. Have people pose for you occasionally by works of art. Admire the work itself and comment occasionally to no one in particular on its depth and prescience to our troubled times. Relish your role and imagine what it would really be like to be a genuine photographer covering the titillating local art beat.

But you didn't come here to gaze at the spectacle and hob-knob with the society's finest. No. You're starving and not quite drunk enough yet, remember? A good shuffler will always stake out their Hit first. This can easily be done as The Photographer, or any one of many guises. Once you've developed a mental blueprint of the gallery's floor plan in your mind, record how long it takes you to make one entire revolution of the exhibit. Now measure your distance and time (accounting for schmoozing, flirting, inane banter, and the occasional photo-op) from the catering room and bar to any given point in the gallery. You should be able to do this blindfolded and completely wasted.

The trick to the hors d'oeuvre table is not making a pig of yourself. No one likes a glutton, especially when he's on his fifth round of weenie-tots and there's an angry mob formulating behind him. So try and disperse your many visits to the catering table intermittently throughout the evening. Make your rounds slowly and methodically. But make each sortie count, filling your plate (but careful not to over-flow) with miniature delicacies. A good trick is not hovering around the hors d'oeuvre table like some stalking vulture, but preying and attacking at the very source: Waiters and caterers will periodically emerge from a kitchen or backroom to replenish the cornucopia of food. Intercept them as they enter the main room and corner them until the relinquish all that you desire. Eat slowly and try to chew each bite at least twice with your mouth closed. You may find this difficult, as you are starving, and attempting to act like you actually care about the conversation you're currently engaged in. Although at times you may feel as if you're eating your own stomach on the inside, you must always project a lucid, sober and well-nourished appearance to the public.

A good art gallery bar will usually serve wine, punch or mezcal, if you're really lucky. The booze tends to be the first item to be exhausted at these events, so don't be shy to make repeated appearances at the bar. Get to know your bartender. Compliment him or her on their snappy attire. And tip well. There are no false inhibitions here. This is a town full of drunks, after all. And unlike the catering table, there's no need to exercise moderation, restraint or diplomacy. Art galleries love a drunk. They're the loud and colorful people who bring such special warmth and genuineness to these otherwise dry and stuffy events. And occasionally one of them gets really smashed and actually decides to purchase some hideously over-priced piece of crap they'll surely regret the next morning.
A good shuffler can schedule up to four exhibits in a single evening, depending on how much action there is in town on any given night. And one can easily sustain himself and his drinking habit by migrating from event to event. You may even find like-minded shufflers on the circuit who are perhaps even more advanced players than yourself. Respect these other players, learn from them, and try not to blow one another's cover. After all, we're all in this great dance together, and no one wants to be stuck waiting at the dreaded Western Union line.

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