 There
are hidden gems all over this city. One day, you’ll be looking
for one thing and then suddenly stumble across something completely
wonderful and unexpected. Such was the case last week, when we visited
the Hotel Refugio del Molino on the Salida Real a Querétaro.
We had been uncontrollably drawn here in search of putt-putt (mini)
golf, which had been whispered only in rumors. Ran commandeered
a La Jerga field team, consisting of himself and Shotgun Pablo.
And low and behold, the rumors were true. There was indeed putt-putt.
(see Ran’s review in insert) But there was much more. Ran
returned with fanciful tales of an impressive ranch hotel, with
beautiful gardens, a gorgeous pool and a badass bar straight out
of a 70’s Mexican sexploitation movie. This all rang bells
and set off red flags for me. Ran had inadvertently stumbled upon
one of San Miguel’s little known treasures. The hotel had
been constructed and originally owned by Mario Moreno Reyes, known
to most as one of the world’s greatest comedians, Cantinflas.
Putt-Putt!!
Next time you are sitting around complaining there is nothing
to do, why not go take a good look around town, there are
a lot of hidden nuggets. This putt-putt course is very challenging,
seriously. A delicate touch is needed, as is the crowd favorite,
brute force. The aqueduct hole will keep you entertained for
hours trying to get it to work. Did I mention you can order
drinks at the bar and play? Fun time was had by all, highly
suggested viewing.
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Capitan de Meseros Cruz
Avalos, a San Miguel native, began as a waiter at the hotel in 1985,
after working at Taboada. Capitan Avalos recounted to me the history
of the hotel and his fond memories for its owner, Mr. Moreno. The
hotel was originally called Villas del Molino and was built around
1973 by Mr. Moreno and his engineer, Don Roberto Palomera, who would
eventually inherit the property. San Miguel was chosen as the location
because of its favorable climate, its status as an ideal tourist
and star destination and because it was one of Mr. Moreno’s
favorite cities, where he would often spend time relaxing in between
films and away from Mexico City. Although Mr. Moreno’s visits
at the hotel were infrequent (he would often stay down the road
at the Hotel Posada La Ermita, which he also owned) Capitan Avalos
recalls the great actor as “a very special person, very refined,
but not an egoist. He’s a very difficult person to characterize,
because he was a very special person. More than anything, he was
a great humanitarian, especially with [the hotel staff]. He would
often ask us, ‘How are you doing pal? Or, how are you doing
bro?’”
The hotel has 53 rooms and plans to expand to 60. Many of the old
two-floor suites have been converted into single and double rooms.
But Mr. Moreno’s suite, room number 208, has essentially remained
intact. A caricature of his most famous character, Cantinflas, is
painted upon the outside wall. Capitan Avalos tells me the trunk
where Mr. Moreno used to keep his clothes was removed some years
ago and its interior has been redecorated and modernized. On the
stairs up to the second floor you will find a poster that honors
Mr. Moreno’s memory with the following statement: “How
many feats and triumphs can be achieved by a man of humble cradle...From
the tents to the filmic forum, Mario Moreno “Cantinflas”
(1911 – 1993) found the precise key to move the Mexican slyness
and turn it into a style never equalized although often emulated.
Every step of his career satisfies the public taste of different
social classes. The most authentic class is the class of spectator
who admired him in those dusty scenarios, those who made him an
idol...Here is a tribute to the constructor of this Hotel, where
you are now resting.”
 After
Mr. Moreno died in 1993, the hotel was bought by the Engineer Don
Roberto Palomera. Eventually the hotel would change hands again,
when it would be bought by its present owners the Comanjilla group,
which own a chain of hotels in Mexico. The hotel has changed somewhat
over time, as the rooms have been redecorated and refurnished, but
remains essentially the same with its charming gardens, elegant
swimming pool, signature actual-size windmill, children’s
playground and of course, the challenging nine hole putt-putt golf
course. The hotel has a full restaurant for its guests as well as
a magnificent bar. The perfectly preserved, dark wood-framed bar
is right out of a seventies time capsule and is adorned with classic
pictures of the hotel’s most famous guest. You can almost
picture Mr. Moreno entertaining his friend’s and guests at
the padded-leather bar, sitting in its pimpin’ leather swivel
chairs, smoking cigars, knocking back tequilas and recounting humorous
tales of days past. There is something almost “Shining-esque”
yet comforting about this old solitary bar (empty only because it
was the dead calm before the impending tourist season storm) where
we stopped, enjoyed a drink and imagined we movie stars for one
night.
Hotel Refugio del Molino is located on Salida Real a Querétaro
No. 1. For reservations call (415) 152-1977 or (415) 152-1765, or
just drop by for a drink and some putt-putt.
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