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Rosanski’s old Chevy station wagon went airborne as we crested a hill on the old crumbling highway to Guanajuato. I knew complaining to Rosanski would only make him drive faster. He was in a foul mood and that morning had been complaining to me about the ration of shit he had been receiving from everyone about punching Guatemala Bob in the face, then kicking him a couple times in the ribs after he went down. Guatemala Bob had threatened Rosanski with a knife. At the time Bob was high on several incompatible drugs, and was not at all himself. Bob weighed 100 lbs. soaking wet and as far as anyone knew had never before showed any inclination toward violence. Rosanksi on the other hand was a tough loudmouth Jew from the Bronx. Although now in his 50’s, he never missed a chance to revert to his childhood habits, especially when threatened. The fact that the threat came from someone as simpleminded and harmless as Guatemala Bob was beside the point.

Some of Rosanski’s friends, in addition to criticizing what they thought was an over reaction to Guatemala Bob’s knife waving, suggested that perhaps Bob had a good reason for wanting to stab Rosanski.

When asked about this the next day, however, Bob said he didn’t remember what his reason was.

“Fuck everybody,” Rosanski had said, “I need to get out of this town.”

When he said that I saw my chance for a ride to Guanajuato to visit Jason. Jason had been lodged in the old prison in downtown Guanajuato for the last two years. Today he would be transferred to a newly constructed penitentiary that would replace the ancient prison. And since I owed him a visit, this would be a good time to deliver the shopping bag full of books and a few other items he had asked for, that had been sitting in the corner of my bedroom for the past month.

We were airborne again and landing was not so smooth this time but Rosanksi easily regained control of the car and went back to dividing his time between the highway and Monica’s legs. The hem of her tight skirt had ridden up precariously close to home base. Monica was an important part of our visit to Jason. Jason had specifically requested if she could come again, after last Thanksgivings visit. I was hoping she would make up for how long it had taken me to get that shopping bag full of stuff to Jason.

I had started visiting Jason when none of his friends would. Jason had been busted for growing and selling pot in his bedroom from seeds he had sent away for through High Times magazine. And most of his friends were either customers or just nervous about visiting a convicted felon. He was stupid enough to tell the police where he got the seeds and they had slapped an additional four years for illegal import onto the seven years for dealing. (He had been subsequently told by a fellow prisoner, “Man, you would have been better off being caught with a truck full of marijuana than one plant.” Agriculture, that is the growing of marijuana—one plant or one acre—carries the stiffest penalty on the books.) His second mistake was to use the money he had inherited after his mom’s death to rent a $300 dollar-a-month room in the prison and hire a cook to prepare the filet mignons he was buying for himself and some of the other prisoners. This was contrary to his lawyer’s advice, who said he should sleep on the floor and eat the beans and tortillas provided, so he would look just like a dumb hippie, which he was. Instead, he made himself look like a big time drug dealer, which he wasn’t. This made his lawyer’s job real hard, and he ended up facing eleven years.

But as long as Jason had to spend time in jail, he was fortunate enough to have some money. The way things worked in these old prisons, you got put in a big room, and that was it. You had the clothes on your back, and you slept on the floor, and you had your beans and tortillas twice a day, and in the morning, coffee, if you had something to put it in.

For anything else, you depended on your family or friends. The prison world was sort of a microcosm of the real world. There were the haves and the have-nots. The haves could rent a room, bring in a TV and a nice bed. The have-nots could work for the haves, like Jason’s cook. Some inmates made things to sell on the outside. Twice a week there were conjugal visits. In the big open space most of the men had mattresses to sleep on, brought by their families, and others had tents for privacy.

There was not much violence. Some real bad guys came into the prison population once and starting rousting people for whatever valuables they had. They broke into Jason’s room one night, put a knife to his throat and took his cash. A group of the prisoners went to see the warden and the hard guys were put into a separate section of the prison without sunlight.

On Thanksgiving, Monica and two of her girlfriends and I had visited Jason. The girls dressed up in their cutest outfits, Monica going over the top in a tight red skirt and a plunging white blouse. At the time her curly hair was white blonde, and there was lots of it. Monica was a card-carrying exhibitionist and the perfect woman to cheer up a guy passing Thanksgiving in a Mexican jail. When we arrived Jason took us all on a tour of the prison and showed us his small room. It was conjugal visit day and visitors could join the prisoners in the large outdoor courtyard. We went to a corner of the courtyard where a couple of Jason’s friends were eating carnitas. We joined them and spread the Thanksgiving meal we brought over a blanket. Girlfriends and wives of the prisoners were preparing meals over brazier fires. Children ran around playing and laughing or eating with their families. On the other side of the courtyard was a large barred gate with some single men on the other side of the bars. They had spotted Monica and her friends and had climbed up the bars for a better look. There were catcalls and whistles, which the girls took with smiles and grace. They were calling out to Jason for him to bring the girls over, Jason ignored them. Monica, who spoke Spanish well, obligingly found excuses to get up and move around. The prisoners were very happy with Monica and she enjoyed making them happy.

All things considered, if you had to be in a prison, Jason’s prison seemed not all that bad on that particular day. I wondered how the new penitentiary would compare. I didn´t like the sound of it—penitentiary. I would soon know, as the ride from hell was now over and Rosanski was pulling into a parking lot.

We parked and went through a security check before being led to a visitor’s waiting room. We were told we would see Jason one at a time. The penitentiary was clean and sterile.

I went first. I was ushered to a seat in front of a one-inch-thick plexiglass window, with a circle of small holes drilled into the center. When Jason sat down on the other side of the glass I could barley hear what he was saying. Suddenly Jason stood up and said, “I can’t stand this anymore,” and disappeared. Not knowing what else to do I sat and waited. After what seemed an eternity a guard appeared and motioned for me to follow him. We wound our way through some passageways to a steel door where Rosanski and Monica were waiting. As the guard turned a large key and opened the steel door, he stared at Monica in a way that made my skin crawl. He nodded us through and closed the door behind us. I heard the lock fall into place. Jason was on the other side waiting. I never did ask him how he had done this.

We moved around freely, Jason took us to see the cell he shared with another man. It was clean and modern with bunk beds. After this we went to what seemed like a large hallway and stood talking. Occasionally prisoners passed by, and I began thinking about the absence of guards anywhere. I could feel Rosanski tensing up a little.
“Not many guards around,” I commented. I wondered where that door was and if the guard was still on the other side.

“No fucking guards,” Rosanski clarified.

Three inmates passed us, all staring at Monica. Rosanki told her to stop standing with her legs apart, her perpetual stance, like a gunfighter. But in that stretch skirt and high heels it didn’t look like she was looking for a shootout. Jason changed places with her, putting her back to the wall. Rosanksi eyed her cleavage. “Doesn’t help,” he offered.
“Jason, maybe we should find that door,” Monica suggested.

Before Jason could answer, one of the prisoners came up and murmured something rapid in Spanish in Jason’s ear. “He wants us to go to the cafeteria, ” Jason said.

“I’m not hungry,” said Rosanski. We were all silent for a moment while the prisoner waited. At last Monica said, “Shit, let’s just go.”

We followed Jason and the inmate deeper into the prison to the cafeteria. We were seated in the very middle of the dinning hall. At one end was a group of ten prisoners sitting on tables and benches. It was as modern and clean as the rest of the prison. No one was eating.

More men began to file in. They formed a circle around us three men deep. The ones in the back stood on tables. No one said anything, neither them nor us. After the last man came in, they just sat.

Then a man squeezed through the crowd carrying a tray of food. He came forward and put it on the table in front of Monica. He said, “Es lo mejor que nosotros tenemos hoy, pero hay otras cosas si no te gusta.” It was a piece of fish, rice and broccoli. Monica sat and stared at it.

“Eat,” whispered Rosanksi.

“I’m a vegetarian,” she whispered back, still staring at the food.

“Not today,” he muttered.

While they watched in silence, she ate it all. When she had finished, a man came for the tray, and another brought her a small dish with a slice of pineapple on it. When that had been taken away a man came forward with a woven cloth belt.

“I made this,” he said in English, and put it in front of her. This was followed by a model of a boat, a Guadalupe carved of wood, and a handbag made of woven plastic bags.

On the way back to San Miguel, Rosanksi drove at a more moderate speed. We rode in silence for a while and then Monica murmured in her Texas drawl, “Well, you boys sure know how to show a girl a good time.”

This would be our last visit to see Jason. Shortly after this, he was returned to the States as part of a prisoner exchange program. Two planes taxied into position opposite one another on a landing strip somewhere on the border. In single file, shackled Mexican prisoners awkwardly shuffled down the stairs of the American plane towards the Mexican plane, where shackled American prisoners were doing the opposite. As the two lines passed one another, the Mexicans whispered the same message over and over again to the American prisoners.

“You’ll be sorry,” shuffle, “You’ll be sorry,” shuffle, shuffle.

Four months later Jason’s case was reviewed by a U.S. judge and found to be lacking sufficient evidence, and he was released from a U.S. Federal penitentiary. I had one phone call from him. He said he was putting an ad in the Situations Wanted column of the classified sections of several newspapers. The ad stated that he had just been released from a Mexican prison after four years of incarceration for smuggling pot, that he was experienced in international import and export, could work under stressful conditions, was a self-reliant organizer and spoke fluent Spanish.

All true.


(All Artwork from prisoners. Visit www.prisonart.org for information on outsider prisoner art.)

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