| The
18th century Ex-Hacienda Corralejo in Pénjamo, Guanajuato,
is home to Tequila Corralejo, which for the past ten years has
been producing fine boutique tequila for Mexico and the world.
Due to an agave crisis in 2001 that drove tequila production prices
through the roof and the serendipitous demand for a distinct Mexican
beer, the Corralejo Tequila owners decided to diversify their
revenue streams and expand into the micro-brew industry.
“A client in the U.S. who consumes our tequila used to distribute
Corona up there. So when he lost their distribution he called
me up and said he wanted a Mexican beer,” recalls Tequila
Corralejo founder and owner Leonardo Rodriguez. “I told
him there were only two breweries in Mexico and that was it. So,
after a few Corralejos—because Corralejo is the tequila
of truth, after 3 glasses you begin to speak the truth—I
told him the only person who could make this beer was me. I told
him to find me a distillery over there, because I’m a junkman,
I can’t buy anything, I don’t have the capital...I
had forgotten about it when he called me up one day and said,
‘Hey I got that distillery, it’s impeccable, it’s
marvelous...’ And he sent me a photo and the photo looked
great. And I made a low offer, being the junkman that I am...”
The tequila makers found an unused beer distillery in Chicago,
Illinois, shipped it down to Mexico and reassembled it piece by
piece in Pénjamo. The would-be brewers wanted to create
a new beer that was different from the rest of Mexican beers,
which are awash with lights and ambers. So four years ago they
conceived of a darker, heavier, bitterer beer, which would be
characterized by its 100% malt ingredients. This beer became known
as Potro and was inspired by Mr. Rodriguez’ sons. And on
the 18th of September of 2001 the first lot of Potro was produced.
“I
always had the illusion of having an exclusive bottle for my products,”
reminisces Rodriguez. “For us, the presentation is like
a woman. If you see her looking shabby, you won’t approach
her. But if you see her all dolled-up, well you make a move and
you stay with her your entire life, just like it happened to me.
That’s what a bottle is like, you have to present it well,
draw people’s attention to it, and if what’s on the
inside is good, you stay with her.”
The brewers opted for a distinctive blue, rectangular bottle,
which later had to be modified to contain the carbonated pressure,
and resulted in the rounded 500ml bottle we recognize today. Since
one often holds a normal beer bottle by its base, inadvertently
heating the liquid inside, they designed a long neck by which
you could hold your beer, without warming it.
“Its not a commercial beer, its a beer to be enjoyed, to
be savored. It’s not meant as a thirst quencher...It’s
meant for the person that maybe doesn’t like wine, but can
appreciate a good beer.”
The next product to be launched was Cheisy, which came about 2
years ago, and is a light beer (with a low 2.5% alcohol by volume)
mixed with a lemon-lime soft drink. It is considered an alcoholic
beverage but it is neither beer nor soft drink. Which is a tough
sell, considering it doesn’t have quite enough punch to
get you sauced and it’s not a completely wholesome soft
drink, while most people prefer to go either one way or the other.
The next beer to hit the market was Caballero Águila, and
the first production of this came about a year and a half ago,
and was meant for export to the U.S. It has been in the Mexican
market for five months and shares the same characteristics as
Potro; both dark, heavy, bitter stouts with a stable head and
dominant flavors. Only that Potro has a 4.7% alcohol content compared
to Caballero Águila’s 5%.
Since
they began production on Potro, the brewers always planned on
mixing a beer with tequila. But rather than simply add tequila
to Potro, and have yet another dark beer on the market, they decided
to create an amber, which became Horus. Horus would have a higher
grade of alcohol (approximately 7-8 degrees) and would be specifically
formulated to be mixed with white Corralejo tequila. Because when
you mix tequila into a beer, the tequila has a tendency to take
over the flavor. The desired effect when you drink a Horus is
to feel the taste of the tequila, but to leave you with the residual
palate of the beer. Horus has a high alcohol content (12%), and
after three months on the market, has so far been well received.
Potro has been the flagship label, receiving most of the support
and attention, followed by Caballero Águila and Horus,
which sold out after its first production run. An average production,
or lot, of Potro is 16,000 bottles. Compared to the other beers,
which use standard 355ml bottles, and have lots of 22,000 bottles.
A lot is produced every two days and consists of approximately
10,000 liters, which is what their tank holds.
“We’re not the ones who sell the most,” proclaims
Rodriguez, “we’re the ones who have the best quality.
That’s the difference. Quality can’t be done at a
high volume.”
Ana Cristina Hernández Segoviano, a young biochemist in
her thirties in charge of production, was our guide through Cervecera
Mexicana. We asked her why there weren’t more dark beers
and stouts in the Mexican market. Had it simply not occurred to
anyone else? Or was it due to a lack of available ingredients?
Cristina went on to explain that for the creation of any beer,
be it a stout, ale or lager, the basic ingredients are always
the same: malts, water, hops and yeast. And just about every beer
has extra ingredients such as corn, rice, wheat, sorghum, etc.
There are an endless variety of malts and hops to choose from,
depending on the type of product you wish to create. But due to
climate conditions, hops don’t grow naturally in Mexico
and have to be imported from Europe, the U.S. and Canada. Hops
are the spice of beer and they are what give each beer its distinctive
flavor and aroma. It is an expensive ingredient that is used in
small quantities. While yeast is a microorganism that gives each
beer its own characteristics, sometimes yielding fruity flavors
and citric or buttery aromas.
Today
Potro and Caballero Águila are being exported to Texas,
California and New York, and Potro is also available in Spain.
The national market has been a bit more difficult to crack due
to the pervasiveness of the two major Mexican breweries. Cervecera
Mexicana’s beers can be found throughout Querétaro,
Michoacán, Jalisco and parts of Aguas Calientes as well
as Chihuahua, Tijuana and the state of Mexico. Tequila Corralejo,
Cervecera Mexicana and the glass factory that produces all their
bottles combine to employ 300 people on the Ex-Hacienda Corralejo.
Tours are available daily from 9am to 4pm. For more information
call: 01(469) 696-4105
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