 As
is often the case in San Miguel, some of the greatests wonders are
behind some of the most unassuming doors in town. One such example
is the toy collection of Don Gumercindo España in Casa Cuesta.
Gumercindo began making toys over forty years ago when his father
taught him here in the state of Guanajuato. The family home acts
as the factory, with his entire family helping out, right down to
the kids, who get to pick up brushes and paint toys everyday.
He started his craftsmanship by copying antique toys, called negros,
because they were formed from mud, then cured with the smoke of
manure. They would then apply seeds to the figures to make eyes.
Luckily, today, Gumercindo works with wooden toys that he and his
family paint with aniline dyes incredibly festive and dramatic scenes.
All the toys are interactive, and some are so clever they would
make a Swiss watchmaker blush. I saw a multiple pulley system create
a field of movement to the turn of only one handle. Brilliant stuff
for guy who was never “classically” trained in such
things.
His pieces change with the festivals here in Guanajuato. If you’re
lucky, you might have seen some of his works for Corpus Christi.
His themes range as extensively as the entire fabric of modern Mexican
society as he sees it. Skeletons, wild plush toys, many shades of
bullfighting, and an insanely cool carrousel. I know exactly what
my young nieces and nephews are getting for Christmas.
His craft has garnished him some notoriety, including an award by
the cigarette company La Moderna, for his wagon with a corpse and
gravedigger. And in 1996, Fomento Cultural Banamex granted him an
award so he could buy an electric plane, a table saw and a drill
press. What impresses me most is his level of production before
he even used such tools.
Using capalillo wood found locally in Guanajauto, they first cure
it with lime to prevent any insect food fest on your toy. They use
a pencil to outline the pieces to be cut on the sheets of the treated
wood, sometimes added by a handy template made years ago. The moving
pieces are bound together with thin wire or strong hemp fibers.
The two traditional pieces from his native Santa Cruz de Juventino
Rosas are hens and doves that move their heads and tails activated
by a small clay ball. By swinging this ball, the birds do the classic
dipping for water movement into a small acorn, usually glued on
a small piece of board with the bird. But “Chinda,”
as don Gumercindo is known, is the master.
The next time you find yourself saying there is nothing to do in
San Miguel de Allende, call Bill and Heidi at Casa Cuesta to go
see these toys, an incredible mask collection, and great insight
to the vast cultures and traditions of the country. And make sure
to take a sneak peak at the view, it has its own unique angle.
Casa de la Cuesta
Tel: 52 (415) 154-4324 Fax: 52 (415) 154-5032
Email: info@casadelacuesta.com
Cuesta de San Jose #32
San Miguel de Allende,
Guanajuato, Mexico 37700 |
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